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Blue planet nutrients ppm11/13/2023 It helps "read the plant" when you know what you're giving it, and how you changed what you're giving. I have worked out some of the boutique "lineups" and they're all in the same range (mentioned above). You can plug your products into that spreadsheet and see what the resulting NPK ratio is for any feeding. I created a spreadsheet to make it easier to figure that out (and, recreate it using other, simpler products). The problem is when using boutique multi-bottle "lineups" you don't know what the NPK is resulting from the mix. I shoot for an NPK *ratio* of 1.5-1-1.5 (maybe 2-1-1.5) in veg and 1-1.5-1.5 in flower (maybe 1-2-1.5 at the end, perhaps 1-3-1.5 once or twice at the end). I think too much is made of veg vs bloom nutes (to sell more boutique "lineups"). What lighting do you use? How many watts covering how much sq ft?īe careful reducing N too much, especially too soon. I do it occasionally just to check that things are working ok.Ĭlick to expand.First plant I harvested was an autoflower under T5HO. Once you find a sane strength you don't have to do it. I suspect the difference in my case was that GM-SG contains organic components.Īnyway, that's when I found that watching runoff PPMs is a good way to help dial in nutrient strengths. I don't know why some nutrients burn and others simply accumulate and acidify. But, by flower I had *massive* problems due to salt built up. I thought it was all about PPMs, so that should be it. I switched to the (much) less expensive Grow More Sea Grow and fed the same amount of PPMs (which turned out to be what the product label recommended). I fed 800-1200ppm (which is produced by about 2/3 of the label's recommended dose). I started growing with GH Flora (3-part). It's useful info to have if/when you have a plant problem. It just eliminates the guess work, shooting in the dark, etc. If they rise to 2000ppm I know I'm either overfeeding and/or not producing enough runoff. Excessive nutes can accumulate and acidify the soil, causing lockout which will look like *under* feeding. How do you know when you found "too much?" Watch for burnt leaf tips. Typically you start at half the label's strength and work up from there. Check out our handy Bluelab pH Pen so you have every tool required to manage your nutrient solution.Click to expand.If you can't find someone using the same nutrients you do, you have to experiment and find the right strength. To make sure the plants can get at the food, you need to measure the pH of the solution. Temperature affects the growth rate and structure of a plant so a solution temperature of 18 - 22?C or 65 - 72?F is recommended. The Bluelab Conductivity Pen also measures the temperature of the solution, as root health is vital to the success of a crop. Top up the nutrient level between changes - so your plants always have the right amount of food. Completely change the reservoir solution every 7 days. Measuring the conductivity every day is the best way to avoid over-diluting or over-concentrating your nutrient solution. To feed plants well, we need to know what we're feeding them. The Bluelab Conductivity Pen simply tells you that your plants have the right amount of nutrient in your solution and lets you know if adjustments are needed. The ultimate handy solution for measuring conductivity (EC or ppm) and temperature! Grow Systems, Flood Tables, Trays & Reservoirs Grow Systems, Flood Tables, Trays & Reservoirs.
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